Le soleil se fait attendre, mais à son apparition, les visages s’illuminent: clameur et bras s’élèvent au milieu des pierres millénaires du site préhistorique anglais de Stonehenge pour le solstice d’été.
A 4H49, heure du lever du soleil mardi, jour le plus long de l’année, l’astre se fait bien timide dans un ciel aussi brumeux que l’esprit de nombre des fêtards qui ont passé la nuit sur place. L’événement a rassemblé mardi au total 6.000 personnes pour le coucher et le lever du soleil – selon le gestionnaire du site et la police – lors de la première grande célébration estivale à Stonehenge depuis le début de la pandémie.
Erigé il y a environ 4.500 ans, le célèbre ensemble de mégalithes est aligné sur l’axe du soleil lors des solstices d’été et d’hiver.
« Peut-être qu’on le verra vers 10H00 », plaisante Jade Tetlon, venue pour la première fois à Stonehenge depuis Leicester, dans le centre de l’Angleterre, avec un ami. Entourée par les airs de flûte, de tambour, le chant des oiseaux et le bêlement des moutons mais aussi le grondement des camions sur la voie rapide qui se trouve non loin, la jeune femme de 35 ans se trouve ainsi plongée dans l’ambiance unique de l’endroit.
Dans l’air flotte un mélange d’odeurs d’encens et d’herbe, malgré l’interdiction en vigueur énoncée à l’entrée du site.
1/21
Revelers arrive at the stones at Stonehenge, near Amesbury, in Wiltshire, southern England on June 20, 2022, on the eve of a festival, dating back thousands of years, that will celebrate the longest day of the year when the sun will be at its maximum elevation. – The stone monument — carved and constructed at a time when there were no metal tools — symbolises Britain’s semi-mythical pre-historic period, and has spawned countless legends. (Photo by Justin TALLIS / AFP)
2/21
The sun sets near the stones at Stonehenge, near Amesbury, in Wiltshire, southern England on June 20, 2022, on the eve of a festival, dating back thousands of years, that will celebrate the longest day of the year when the sun will be at its maximum elevation. – The stone monument — carved and constructed at a time when there were no metal tools — symbolises Britain’s semi-mythical pre-historic period, and has spawned countless legends. (Photo by Justin TALLIS / AFP)
3/21
The sun sets near the stones at Stonehenge, near Amesbury, in Wiltshire, southern England on June 20, 2022, on the eve of a festival, dating back thousands of years, that will celebrate the longest day of the year when the sun will be at its maximum elevation. – The stone monument — carved and constructed at a time when there were no metal tools — symbolises Britain’s semi-mythical pre-historic period, and has spawned countless legends. (Photo by Justin TALLIS / AFP)
4/21
Revelers interact with the stone monument as the sun sets behind the stones at Stonehenge, near Amesbury, in Wiltshire, southern England on June 20, 2022, on the eve of a festival, dating back thousands of years, that will celebrate the longest day of the year when the sun will be at its maximum elevation. – The stone monument — carved and constructed at a time when there were no metal tools — symbolises Britain’s semi-mythical pre-historic period, and has spawned countless legends. (Photo by Justin TALLIS / AFP)
5/21
The sun sets near the stones at Stonehenge, near Amesbury, in Wiltshire, southern England on June 20, 2022, on the eve of a festival, dating back thousands of years, that will celebrate the longest day of the year when the sun will be at its maximum elevation. – The stone monument — carved and constructed at a time when there were no metal tools — symbolises Britain’s semi-mythical pre-historic period, and has spawned countless legends. (Photo by Justin TALLIS / AFP)
6/21
Revelers interact with the stone monument as the sun sets behind the stones at Stonehenge, near Amesbury, in Wiltshire, southern England on June 20, 2022, on the eve of a festival, dating back thousands of years, that will celebrate the longest day of the year when the sun will be at its maximum elevation. – The stone monument — carved and constructed at a time when there were no metal tools — symbolises Britain’s semi-mythical pre-historic period, and has spawned countless legends. (Photo by Justin TALLIS / AFP)
7/21
Revellers celebrate the Summer Solstice as the sun rises at Stonehenge, near Amesbury, in Wiltshire, southern England on June 21, 2022, in a festival, which dates back thousands of years, celebrating the longest day of the year when the sun is at its maximum elevation. – The stone monument — carved and constructed at a time when there were no metal tools — symbolises Britain’s semi-mythical pre-historic period, and has spawned countless legends. (Photo by Justin TALLIS / AFP)
8/21
Revellers celebrate the Summer Solstice as the sun rises at Stonehenge, near Amesbury, in Wiltshire, southern England on June 21, 2022, in a festival, which dates back thousands of years, celebrating the longest day of the year when the sun is at its maximum elevation. – The stone monument — carved and constructed at a time when there were no metal tools — symbolises Britain’s semi-mythical pre-historic period, and has spawned countless legends. (Photo by Justin TALLIS / AFP)
9/21
Revellers celebrate the Summer Solstice as the sun rises at Stonehenge, near Amesbury, in Wiltshire, southern England on June 21, 2022, in a festival, which dates back thousands of years, celebrating the longest day of the year when the sun is at its maximum elevation. – The stone monument — carved and constructed at a time when there were no metal tools — symbolises Britain’s semi-mythical pre-historic period, and has spawned countless legends. (Photo by Justin TALLIS / AFP)
10/21
Revellers celebrate the Summer Solstice as the sun rises at Stonehenge, near Amesbury, in Wiltshire, southern England on June 21, 2022, in a festival, which dates back thousands of years, celebrating the longest day of the year when the sun is at its maximum elevation. – The stone monument — carved and constructed at a time when there were no metal tools — symbolises Britain’s semi-mythical pre-historic period, and has spawned countless legends. (Photo by Justin TALLIS / AFP)
11/21
Revellers celebrate the Summer Solstice as the sun rises at Stonehenge, near Amesbury, in Wiltshire, southern England on June 21, 2022, in a festival, which dates back thousands of years, celebrating the longest day of the year when the sun is at its maximum elevation. – The stone monument — carved and constructed at a time when there were no metal tools — symbolises Britain’s semi-mythical pre-historic period, and has spawned countless legends. (Photo by Justin TALLIS / AFP)
12/21
Revelers interact with the stone monument as they celebrate the Summer Solstice as the sun rises at Stonehenge, near Amesbury, in Wiltshire, southern England on June 21, 2022, in a festival, which dates back thousands of years, celebrating the longest day of the year when the sun is at its maximum elevation. – The stone monument — carved and constructed at a time when there were no metal tools — symbolises Britain’s semi-mythical pre-historic period, and has spawned countless legends. (Photo by Justin TALLIS / AFP)
13/21
Revelers take photographs as they celebrate the Summer Solstice as the sun rises at Stonehenge, near Amesbury, in Wiltshire, southern England on June 21, 2022, in a festival, which dates back thousands of years, celebrating the longest day of the year when the sun is at its maximum elevation. – The stone monument — carved and constructed at a time when there were no metal tools — symbolises Britain’s semi-mythical pre-historic period, and has spawned countless legends. (Photo by Justin TALLIS / AFP)
14/21
Revellers celebrate the Summer Solstice as the sun rises at Stonehenge, near Amesbury, in Wiltshire, southern England on June 21, 2022, in a festival, which dates back thousands of years, celebrating the longest day of the year when the sun is at its maximum elevation. – The stone monument — carved and constructed at a time when there were no metal tools — symbolises Britain’s semi-mythical pre-historic period, and has spawned countless legends. (Photo by Justin TALLIS / AFP)
15/21
Revelers interact with the stone monument as they celebrate the Summer Solstice as the sun rises at Stonehenge, near Amesbury, in Wiltshire, southern England on June 21, 2022, in a festival, which dates back thousands of years, celebrating the longest day of the year when the sun is at its maximum elevation. – The stone monument — carved and constructed at a time when there were no metal tools — symbolises Britain’s semi-mythical pre-historic period, and has spawned countless legends. (Photo by Justin TALLIS / AFP)
16/21
Revelers interact with the stone monument as they celebrate the Summer Solstice as the sun rises at Stonehenge, near Amesbury, in Wiltshire, southern England on June 21, 2022, in a festival, which dates back thousands of years, celebrating the longest day of the year when the sun is at its maximum elevation. – The stone monument — carved and constructed at a time when there were no metal tools — symbolises Britain’s semi-mythical pre-historic period, and has spawned countless legends. (Photo by Justin TALLIS / AFP)
17/21
Revellers hugs while celebrating the Summer Solstice as the sun rises at Stonehenge, near Amesbury, in Wiltshire, southern England on June 21, 2022, in a festival, which dates back thousands of years, celebrating the longest day of the year when the sun is at its maximum elevation. – The stone monument — carved and constructed at a time when there were no metal tools — symbolises Britain’s semi-mythical pre-historic period, and has spawned countless legends. (Photo by Justin TALLIS / AFP)
18/21
A reveller celebrates the Summer Solstice as the sun rises at Stonehenge, near Amesbury, in Wiltshire, southern England on June 21, 2022, in a festival, which dates back thousands of years, celebrating the longest day of the year when the sun is at its maximum elevation. – The stone monument — carved and constructed at a time when there were no metal tools — symbolises Britain’s semi-mythical pre-historic period, and has spawned countless legends. (Photo by Justin TALLIS / AFP)
19/21
The sun sets behind the stones at Stonehenge, near Amesbury, in Wiltshire, southern England on June 20, 2022, on the eve of a festival, dating back thousands of years, that will celebrate the longest day of the year when the sun will be at its maximum elevation. – The stone monument — carved and constructed at a time when there were no metal tools — symbolises Britain’s semi-mythical pre-historic period, and has spawned countless legends. (Photo by Justin TALLIS / AFP)
20/21
The sun sets near the stones at Stonehenge, near Amesbury, in Wiltshire, southern England on June 20, 2022, on the eve of a festival, dating back thousands of years, that will celebrate the longest day of the year when the sun will be at its maximum elevation. – The stone monument — carved and constructed at a time when there were no metal tools — symbolises Britain’s semi-mythical pre-historic period, and has spawned countless legends. (Photo by Justin TALLIS / AFP)
21/21
Revelers take photographs as they celebrate the Summer Solstice as the sun rises at Stonehenge, near Amesbury, in Wiltshire, southern England on June 21, 2022, in a festival, which dates back thousands of years, celebrating the longest day of the year when the sun is at its maximum elevation. – The stone monument — carved and constructed at a time when there were no metal tools — symbolises Britain’s semi-mythical pre-historic period, and has spawned countless legends. (Photo by Justin TALLIS / AFP)
1/21
Revelers arrive at the stones at Stonehenge, near Amesbury, in Wiltshire, southern England on June 20, 2022, on the eve of a festival, dating back thousands of years, that will celebrate the longest day of the year when the sun will be at its maximum elevation. – The stone monument — carved and constructed at a time when there were no metal tools — symbolises Britain’s semi-mythical pre-historic period, and has spawned countless legends. (Photo by Justin TALLIS / AFP)
2/21
The sun sets near the stones at Stonehenge, near Amesbury, in Wiltshire, southern England on June 20, 2022, on the eve of a festival, dating back thousands of years, that will celebrate the longest day of the year when the sun will be at its maximum elevation. – The stone monument — carved and constructed at a time when there were no metal tools — symbolises Britain’s semi-mythical pre-historic period, and has spawned countless legends. (Photo by Justin TALLIS / AFP)
3/21
The sun sets near the stones at Stonehenge, near Amesbury, in Wiltshire, southern England on June 20, 2022, on the eve of a festival, dating back thousands of years, that will celebrate the longest day of the year when the sun will be at its maximum elevation. – The stone monument — carved and constructed at a time when there were no metal tools — symbolises Britain’s semi-mythical pre-historic period, and has spawned countless legends. (Photo by Justin TALLIS / AFP)
4/21
Revelers interact with the stone monument as the sun sets behind the stones at Stonehenge, near Amesbury, in Wiltshire, southern England on June 20, 2022, on the eve of a festival, dating back thousands of years, that will celebrate the longest day of the year when the sun will be at its maximum elevation. – The stone monument — carved and constructed at a time when there were no metal tools — symbolises Britain’s semi-mythical pre-historic period, and has spawned countless legends. (Photo by Justin TALLIS / AFP)
5/21
The sun sets near the stones at Stonehenge, near Amesbury, in Wiltshire, southern England on June 20, 2022, on the eve of a festival, dating back thousands of years, that will celebrate the longest day of the year when the sun will be at its maximum elevation. – The stone monument — carved and constructed at a time when there were no metal tools — symbolises Britain’s semi-mythical pre-historic period, and has spawned countless legends. (Photo by Justin TALLIS / AFP)
6/21
Revelers interact with the stone monument as the sun sets behind the stones at Stonehenge, near Amesbury, in Wiltshire, southern England on June 20, 2022, on the eve of a festival, dating back thousands of years, that will celebrate the longest day of the year when the sun will be at its maximum elevation. – The stone monument — carved and constructed at a time when there were no metal tools — symbolises Britain’s semi-mythical pre-historic period, and has spawned countless legends. (Photo by Justin TALLIS / AFP)
7/21
Revellers celebrate the Summer Solstice as the sun rises at Stonehenge, near Amesbury, in Wiltshire, southern England on June 21, 2022, in a festival, which dates back thousands of years, celebrating the longest day of the year when the sun is at its maximum elevation. – The stone monument — carved and constructed at a time when there were no metal tools — symbolises Britain’s semi-mythical pre-historic period, and has spawned countless legends. (Photo by Justin TALLIS / AFP)
8/21
Revellers celebrate the Summer Solstice as the sun rises at Stonehenge, near Amesbury, in Wiltshire, southern England on June 21, 2022, in a festival, which dates back thousands of years, celebrating the longest day of the year when the sun is at its maximum elevation. – The stone monument — carved and constructed at a time when there were no metal tools — symbolises Britain’s semi-mythical pre-historic period, and has spawned countless legends. (Photo by Justin TALLIS / AFP)
9/21
Revellers celebrate the Summer Solstice as the sun rises at Stonehenge, near Amesbury, in Wiltshire, southern England on June 21, 2022, in a festival, which dates back thousands of years, celebrating the longest day of the year when the sun is at its maximum elevation. – The stone monument — carved and constructed at a time when there were no metal tools — symbolises Britain’s semi-mythical pre-historic period, and has spawned countless legends. (Photo by Justin TALLIS / AFP)
10/21
Revellers celebrate the Summer Solstice as the sun rises at Stonehenge, near Amesbury, in Wiltshire, southern England on June 21, 2022, in a festival, which dates back thousands of years, celebrating the longest day of the year when the sun is at its maximum elevation. – The stone monument — carved and constructed at a time when there were no metal tools — symbolises Britain’s semi-mythical pre-historic period, and has spawned countless legends. (Photo by Justin TALLIS / AFP)
11/21
Revellers celebrate the Summer Solstice as the sun rises at Stonehenge, near Amesbury, in Wiltshire, southern England on June 21, 2022, in a festival, which dates back thousands of years, celebrating the longest day of the year when the sun is at its maximum elevation. – The stone monument — carved and constructed at a time when there were no metal tools — symbolises Britain’s semi-mythical pre-historic period, and has spawned countless legends. (Photo by Justin TALLIS / AFP)
12/21
Revelers interact with the stone monument as they celebrate the Summer Solstice as the sun rises at Stonehenge, near Amesbury, in Wiltshire, southern England on June 21, 2022, in a festival, which dates back thousands of years, celebrating the longest day of the year when the sun is at its maximum elevation. – The stone monument — carved and constructed at a time when there were no metal tools — symbolises Britain’s semi-mythical pre-historic period, and has spawned countless legends. (Photo by Justin TALLIS / AFP)
13/21
Revelers take photographs as they celebrate the Summer Solstice as the sun rises at Stonehenge, near Amesbury, in Wiltshire, southern England on June 21, 2022, in a festival, which dates back thousands of years, celebrating the longest day of the year when the sun is at its maximum elevation. – The stone monument — carved and constructed at a time when there were no metal tools — symbolises Britain’s semi-mythical pre-historic period, and has spawned countless legends. (Photo by Justin TALLIS / AFP)
14/21
Revellers celebrate the Summer Solstice as the sun rises at Stonehenge, near Amesbury, in Wiltshire, southern England on June 21, 2022, in a festival, which dates back thousands of years, celebrating the longest day of the year when the sun is at its maximum elevation. – The stone monument — carved and constructed at a time when there were no metal tools — symbolises Britain’s semi-mythical pre-historic period, and has spawned countless legends. (Photo by Justin TALLIS / AFP)
15/21
Revelers interact with the stone monument as they celebrate the Summer Solstice as the sun rises at Stonehenge, near Amesbury, in Wiltshire, southern England on June 21, 2022, in a festival, which dates back thousands of years, celebrating the longest day of the year when the sun is at its maximum elevation. – The stone monument — carved and constructed at a time when there were no metal tools — symbolises Britain’s semi-mythical pre-historic period, and has spawned countless legends. (Photo by Justin TALLIS / AFP)
16/21
Revelers interact with the stone monument as they celebrate the Summer Solstice as the sun rises at Stonehenge, near Amesbury, in Wiltshire, southern England on June 21, 2022, in a festival, which dates back thousands of years, celebrating the longest day of the year when the sun is at its maximum elevation. – The stone monument — carved and constructed at a time when there were no metal tools — symbolises Britain’s semi-mythical pre-historic period, and has spawned countless legends. (Photo by Justin TALLIS / AFP)
17/21
Revellers hugs while celebrating the Summer Solstice as the sun rises at Stonehenge, near Amesbury, in Wiltshire, southern England on June 21, 2022, in a festival, which dates back thousands of years, celebrating the longest day of the year when the sun is at its maximum elevation. – The stone monument — carved and constructed at a time when there were no metal tools — symbolises Britain’s semi-mythical pre-historic period, and has spawned countless legends. (Photo by Justin TALLIS / AFP)
18/21
A reveller celebrates the Summer Solstice as the sun rises at Stonehenge, near Amesbury, in Wiltshire, southern England on June 21, 2022, in a festival, which dates back thousands of years, celebrating the longest day of the year when the sun is at its maximum elevation. – The stone monument — carved and constructed at a time when there were no metal tools — symbolises Britain’s semi-mythical pre-historic period, and has spawned countless legends. (Photo by Justin TALLIS / AFP)
19/21
The sun sets behind the stones at Stonehenge, near Amesbury, in Wiltshire, southern England on June 20, 2022, on the eve of a festival, dating back thousands of years, that will celebrate the longest day of the year when the sun will be at its maximum elevation. – The stone monument — carved and constructed at a time when there were no metal tools — symbolises Britain’s semi-mythical pre-historic period, and has spawned countless legends. (Photo by Justin TALLIS / AFP)
20/21
The sun sets near the stones at Stonehenge, near Amesbury, in Wiltshire, southern England on June 20, 2022, on the eve of a festival, dating back thousands of years, that will celebrate the longest day of the year when the sun will be at its maximum elevation. – The stone monument — carved and constructed at a time when there were no metal tools — symbolises Britain’s semi-mythical pre-historic period, and has spawned countless legends. (Photo by Justin TALLIS / AFP)
21/21
Revelers take photographs as they celebrate the Summer Solstice as the sun rises at Stonehenge, near Amesbury, in Wiltshire, southern England on June 21, 2022, in a festival, which dates back thousands of years, celebrating the longest day of the year when the sun is at its maximum elevation. – The stone monument — carved and constructed at a time when there were no metal tools — symbolises Britain’s semi-mythical pre-historic period, and has spawned countless legends. (Photo by Justin TALLIS / AFP)
Yoga en toge
Mais à 5H08, le soleil émerge enfin de la brume, salué par sifflement et hourras, mais aussi une levée massive de téléphone portables.
Face à l’astre, deux dames, couronnes de fleurs synthétiques dans les cheveux, ouvrent et ferment les bras, pour saluer « la nouvelle énergie » du soleil d’été, explique une d’elles, Joanna Willma.
Un peu plus loin, un groupe, qui compte dans ses rangs une poignée d’hommes en toge, fait du yoga face au soleil.
Les membres d’un autre groupe, écouteurs sur les oreilles, se tiennent la main en cercles concentriques dans un léger balancement avant de se serrer dans les bras par paires, émus et souriants.
Stonehenge est le « cercle de pierres préhistorique le plus sophistiqué au monde d’un point de vue architectural » selon l’Unesco, qui l’a classé au patrimoine mondial en 1986.
Au XVIIe siècle a émergé la théorie, depuis écartée par les historiens, que Stonehenge aurait été construit par des druides.
Monument « fragile »
Les néo-druides restent ainsi très présents et célèbrent solstices et équinoxes sur le site.
Lors d’une cérémonie avant le lever du soleil, l' »archidruide de Stonehenge », Rollo Maughfling, a ainsi lancé des incantations à la paix aux quatre points cardinaux, des invitations au soleil et à la terre, reprises en choeur par l’assistance. Mais aussi des incantations à la libération du fondateur de Wikileaks Julian Assange, à la « paix entre la Russie et l’Ukraine », à la fin du réchauffement climatique.
« Les gens semblent très respectueux quand nous faisons nos cérémonies », explique-t-il à l’AFP, notant que nombre de nouveaux venus bravent parfois l’interdiction de monter sur les pierres qui, souligne-t-il, ont résisté au fil des millénaires.
La conservatrice du site, Heather Sabire, relève quant à elle que malgré la taille des pierres, le monument est « fragile », « il y a beaucoup de choses qu’on ne voit pas à l’oeil nu ».
Parmi les nombreux visiteurs, certains font « presque des cérémonies eux-mêmes », souligne-t-elle, « c’est presque un lieu de culte pour eux ».
Au point de donner lieu à des scènes d’embrassades et de communion avec la pierre.
Selon la police locale, ce solstice d’été à Stonehenge ne s’est soldé que par deux arrestations, pour une agression et une affaire de stupéfiants.
L’histoire du site a pourtant connu un passé tumultueux. Le 1er juin 1985, la police anti-émeutes était intervenue pour stopper un « convoi de la liberté » protestant contre une zone d’exclusion mise en place pour protéger le site.
Après ces événements au récit très disputé de chaque côté, où 400 personnes avaient été interpellées et plusieurs blessées, il a fallu attendre 15 ans pour que le site soit de nouveau accessible pour le solstice.
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